The
Cornice…

Making and covering a cornice is very easy and inexpensive. For normal sized windows, such as the Laundry Room, I use inexpensive ¼” plywood for the top and front and ¾” pine for the two sides. You could use other materials but thicker material would only increase the weight with no real benefit.

Start by making careful measurements

You need to determine the height, width, and depth of your cornice. The height is a matter of taste but usually varies from a minimum of 8” up to no more than 18”. If you are the “Handyman” be sure to consult your own “Diva” to be sure that you agree on the shape and size of the front. The width is pretty easy. Just measure to the outside of your existing window treatment (drapes, shutters, etc.) and add two inches. This will be the width of the entire front piece and also of the top piece, also called the “dust guard”. For the depth, measure from the wall out to the front surface of your window treatment and add one inch. This will be the depth of the two side pieces which, as you may recall, will be made from the ¾” pine wood. The height of the two side pieces will be determined by the height that you (and your Diva) have determined for the front.

After you gather your materials, which we will discuss later, you are ready for the real Handyman part; cutting the wood. If you are not so handy some lumber supply yards will cut your pieces for a small fee. Just take your measurements and a simple sketch. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, and you own a circular saw and a jig saw the cuts are vary easy to make. Once you have your four pieces cut to size; front, top, and two sides, it is time to assemble. It is a good idea to “dry fit” the pieces just to be sure that your pieces fit together and that you understand how you will be making the assembly. It is easiest to dry-fit the pieces with the cornice face down on the floor. Start by laying the front piece flat on the floor. Each piece from her on will actually be placed on this front. Now, stand each end piece on end on the two sides of the front, leaving about ¼” of the front showing at the top. Then hold the top dust guard on the front and up to the two sides.

Take a good look to be sure everything seems to be the way it should be.

After you have the two sides attached do the same with the top. It is not necessary to screw the top to the front.

Once your cornice box is complete it is time to add the covering. Spray the outside of the front, sides, and top (if you want it covered) with a good quality spray adhesive, such as Dap Weldwood Multi Purpose Spray Adhesive. Then apply one layer of batting, trimming along the edges. Then spray another coat of adhesive and apply a second layer of batting. After this glue is dry, only a few minutes, you are ready to put on the real covering.

Lay your covering over the cornice box and trim it making sure to allow for three or four inches of overlap. Be generous, any excess can be cut off later, but is hard to put back on.

Now, with a little help from your friend pull the fabric snug around the cornice box and staple it on the back side. You can staple on the top if it will not show. You want the fabric to be smooth and tight but not so tight that it forms wrinkles. This part may take a little practice and some re-doing, but don’t give up, you can do it. Start your staples in the middle of the cornice box and alternate top and bottom. Work from the center toward the ends. The corners are a bit tricky; they tend to bunch up and are hard to staple. Be sure to use at least ½” staples in these areas. Carefully folding the corners and cutting out excess material from the back side can help. Once you are through attaching the cover material trim off some of the excess from the back side.

If you want to really get fancy you can staple muslin to the inside of the box to cover up any edges and raw wood if you think that your neighbors will be nosing around from the outside. You can also hot-glue cording or other trim to dress up the edges.

You will probably need some help to hang your new cornice. Buy a box of one inch “L” brackets. They come with the proper size crews. Screw two of these brackets to the top frame of your window with one leg of the “L” down and one leg sticking out into the room. Place these two brackets about 10” to 12” in from each end of the window. Now, with some help, place the cornice on the brackets. Reaching up inside the cornice put one screw in each bracket attaching the cornice. Two screws is all that is required to hold the cornice in place and, believe me, that is all you will want to install.

That’s all there is to it, you now have a beautiful cornice to complement your redesigned laundry room (or whatever room you like).

Mr.
Handsome